Because there are endless options on the market, choosing the appropriate water hose for your garden can be a daunting task. Your personal landscape needs can help narrow down the choice.

Before you buy, consider how much distance you need to cover, how often you’ll use it, if it will be exposed to the elements, and how much water capacity you desire. A little research will help you choose the right one.

Length

Know the size of the area you want to cover to determine the length. Generally, hoses come in 25, 50, 75 and 100-foot lengths, as well as rolls that you can cut to a custom length. Also, be mindful that the length of the hose affects water pressure — the longer the hose, the lower the pressure at the end.

Material

Vinyl hoses are usually the cheapest, lightest and most practical. But they’re generally light duty, cannot be left too long in the sun and kink very easily. On the other hand, rubber hoses are stronger, heavier and usually cost more, and they’re more durable and don’t kink easily. There are also some made from a combination of vinyl and rubber.

Size

Diameters of hoses for home use are typically ¾ inch and 5/8 inches (this is the internal diameter of the hose). We recommend a 5/8-inch diameter hose to balance the concerns of strength, pressure and portability. If you plan to use the hose under high pressure (e.g., extensive number of sprinklers or length), choose one with a label that indicates a tolerance of 300 psi and above.

Maintenance

How you care for this essential tool will determine how long it lasts.

Don’t leave the hose exposed to the sun unnecessarily. Use a reel if you have it to stow it when not in use.

Use a cut-off valve — don’t kink the hose to stop the flow.

Replace the metal or plastic washer on the nozzle regularly.

If your hose doesn’t come with a coil spring protector, consider buying one.

By David Abrego,  a conservation consultant for SAWS. David, a native of Panama, likes to spend his time surrounded by plants and fruit trees. So if you can’t find him at home, he’s probably working in a greenhouse. David is also an arborist and an irrigation technician.

Flowering plant species rely on bees to transfer pollen for reproduction and to make seeds and fruit. According to Cornell entomologist Bryan Danforth, native bees are two to three times more effective at pollination than non-native honeybees. One reason for this is because honeybees are largely seeking nectar, while native bees generally seek pollen and spread it at a much higher rate. Furthermore, while honeybees tend to visit many flowers on the same plant, native bees are more wide ranging, carrying their pollen from plant to plant. This means that plants pollinated by native bees produce offspring that are far more genetically diverse, and therefore healthier. So, since our native bees are so important to our ecosystems, how do we best support them?

First, provide habitat for them to nest. While honeybees and bumblebees are hive builders, native bees either nest in the ground, in dead plant stems or dead wood. As you mulch your beds this summer, leave a portion uncovered for ground dwelling bees to nest. And if you have a few dead plants courtesy of the current drought, leaving dead stems can provide terrific habitat for bees and other beneficial insects.

Consider buying or making a bee house for dead wood nesters. Bee houses are like bird houses but filled with nesting material for native bees. This can consist of tubes of cardboard, lake reeds, pieces of untreated wood with holes drilled partly through, and more! The more types of material you use the better as different bees prefer different nesting materials. Also, make sure the bee house has an overhanging roof to protect it from harsh weather. A happy house makes for a happy bee.

The next important thing is to make sure your bees are well fed. Bees are such good pollinators because they broadly pollinate a large variety of plants while looking for nectar and pollen. And while this is true for bees on average, some native bees are also specialists, meaning they prefer the pollen of specific native plants. To support all our native bees (even our specialists), plant a large variety of native plants so bees have blooms (and food) year-round.

Some great plants for native bees that you might see in bloom this summer include plains coreopsis, Indian blanket, bush sunflower, cowpen daisy, gray goldenrod and compass plant. Check out this full list of native plants in our region that support pollinators (pdf).

This summer remember to “bee” responsible for the little ones in your life. Remember that using harsh chemicals like insecticides, pesticides or herbicides will hurt native bees as well as other beneficial insects.

saws at festival of flowersExhibitors include nurseries, landscapers, growers, artisans and nonprofits. In addition, the indoor mall features a dizzying array of gardening suppliers, a farmer’s market with local produce, eggs and honey, and plants, plants, plants!

The 24th citywide Plant Exchange is the largest in Texas with more than 1,000 plants traded over six hours. You’re welcome to bring carts and wagons to the event and there’s even plant check-room where you can store your selections. Be sure to prep your plants, seeds and corms for the event before arriving.

Of course, remember to stop by the SAWS Conservation Station for a free WaterSaver plant (one per adult), while supplies last. And for landscaping tips and tricks, don’t miss the how-to gardening seminars and speak to the experts in the organic world — perfect timing for the upcoming sizzling summer:

“Getting Your Lawn and Landscape Ready for the Summer Heat the Earth-Kind Way”

David Rodriguez, County Extension Agent, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service.

10 a.m.

“Cultivating Flying Flowers: Simple Steps for Improving or Starting Your Butterfly Garden”

Vicki Blachman, Travis County Master Gardener.

11:30 a.m.

Organic Round Table.

Moderated by Bob Webster, KTSA “South Texas Gardening“ Show Host and co-owner, Shades of Green Nursery. Panelists include Bruce Deuley, host of Organic Matters podcast, and Stuart Franke, President of Medina Agriculture Products Co. Inc.

1 p.m.

“Bluebonnets, The Gateway to Native Plants”

Jay White – Owner and Publisher, Texas Gardener Magazine

2:30 p.m.

Festival of Flowers takes place from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Shrine Auditorium, 901 N. Loop 1604 West (exit Stone Oak Parkway).

Admission is $8. Free admission for children 10 and younger. At center stage the Mens’ Garden Club will teach children the basics of working with plants, soil and gardening tools and provide them a potted plant to care for at home.

By Brad Wier,  a SAWS conservation planner. Years in South Texas landscaping and public horticulture gave him a lasting enthusiasm for native plants that don’t die when sprinklers — and gardeners — break down. He’d rather save time and water for kayaking and tubing. He is a former kilt model, and hears hummingbirds.

That’s because unless you’re trying to get rid of the grass, you never want to remove more than one third of a grass blade in a single mowing. Otherwise, you’ll scalp it and leave the lawn with nothing but yellow stalks showing.

If your grass is looking healthy right now, one way to keep it looking that way is to raise the blades and leave them that way throughout summer. Higher grass better retains moisture and nutrients (and helps prevent bald spots and weeds). Adjusting the mowing height helps keep turf dense without having to increase the mowing frequency.

How do you adjust mowing height, you ask? Many mowers have latches at each of the wheels, with notches in ½-inch increments. They may or may not be labeled, but most standard mowers accommodate from 2 inches to 4 inches of mowing height. Start by raising the latches at each wheel to the top and then lower each until they’re all at the same height.

The recommended height varies between grass species.

• Bermuda grass: Mow weekly at 2 inches.
• Zoysia: Mow weekly at 2 ½ inches depending on variety.
• St. Augustine: Mow weekly 3 inches to 3-½ inches; extra height supports its deeper roots.
• Buffalo grass: Mow infrequently, twice per year, 3 inches to 4 inches depending on variety.
• Turf sedge: Can be mowed 2-3 times per year at 4 inches.
•  

Again, if you’re not sure — or you have a healthy mix of grasses and mowable groundcovers —err on the side of caution and use a higher height.

Remember, it’s important not to cut off more than 30 percent of the grass length at any one time. If your Bermuda grass has grown to 5 inches and you cut it down to 2 inches, you may end up with yellow bases and weeds spreading in the newly exposed areas.

Should rainy weather ever occur in summer, most experts advise mowing warm season grasses more frequently. That can mean once a week or even more often. The ease of applying these recommendations depends on the size of the grass area.

As always, there’s a decision to be made about how much lawn you really need and how much can be easily maintained. If you’re looking to remove grass, scalping it is a great way to start.

SAWS WaterSaver programs can help you convert unnecessary grass areas to hardy landscaping or easy outdoor living spaces.

By David Abrego is a conservation consultant for SAWS. David, a native of Panama, likes to spend his time surrounded by plants and fruit trees. So if you can’t find him at home, he’s probably working in a greenhouse. David is also an arborist and an irrigation technician.

While plants don’t have to worry about doing taxes or meeting deadlines, they do have to deal with wind, sun and brutal Texas summer temperatures. There are steps you can take to put those plants through bootcamp and ensure their survival.

The first step is to “harden off” plants when you bring them home from the nursery. Similar to how plant growers introduce seedlings from the green house to an outdoor environment, you can set your pots outside in the shade for a few days.

After that stage them approximately where you intend to plant them to see how well they respond to the light levels. Water them routinely and if you notice they’re flagging or drooping (especially in the morning after a hot afternoon), put them back in the shade or more gradually ramp up the number of hours they’re in the sun.

If they seem acclimated after a week, go ahead and plant them. While drought tolerant plants can go a long time without water, they can use extra support when first planted into the ground. After all, their roots are still pot-sized and possibly accustomed to being watered regularly.

To ensure success, follow the easy 3-2-1 plant establishment routine.

By gradually increasing the time between waterings, you can help them build endurance, encouraging them to grow longer roots for better access to moisture and nutrients underground.

By Sarah Gorton,  a Planner with the SAWS Conservation department. She is passionate about bats and native plants, with a particular fondness for horseherb! Sarah has completed certifications through Texas Master Naturalist and Native Plant Society. When she isn’t working on her research on the use of native grasses for uptaking pollutants at UTSA, she can be found making stained glass or hanging out with her two Chihuahuas.

In the heady days of early sprinkler irrigation, many a homeowner (and many HOAs and businesses) once used masses of begonias, coleus, petunias, pentas and zinnias to accomplish big bright seas of color in the summer landscape. But over the last few decades, many landscapers have reduced or entirely ditched changing out seasonal color in favor of incorporating more long-lived perennial displays.

That’s because keeping a fresh 4-inch bedding plant from drying out can be difficult during a summer drought. Very few annuals coming out of 4-inch pots have enough roots to be considered drought tolerant. Without careful watering over the first few weeks they can be wiped out by just a few scorching hours of 100 degree temperatures. That may be why sweeps of textured perennials have started to become more prominent than old-fashioned sweeps of short-lived annual color.

With the severe drought continuing and Stage 2 watering rules entering their third summer, it makes sense. Another benefit of using perennials? They don’t need to be changed out and watered in every season. Just wait for them to return on their own every summer — it saves water, time, stress and money.

If you’re looking for examples of spikes and mounds in action, they’re everywhere in commercial developments both in midtown San Antonio and north of Loop 1604, where new landscapes need to look marketable.

If your own winter annuals are past their peak and you’re preparing to swap out landscape beds for summer, there’s no need to reinvent the wheel. To fill up a big area in a hurry — especially in the sun — remember the rule of spikes and mounds. Once you learn this concept, you’ll realize it’s quite common in successful southwestern landscape design.

Here are a few tips to help you along.

Plant selection. Leaves that can resist drying sun and wind tend to be thin and fairly small with minimal surface area. Many are also pale in color, and waxy, fleshy or fuzzy to the touch — all features that help them retain water in hot weather and drying winds.

Design. Incorporate these bulletproof features into easy landscape design by laying your plants out in groups of “spikes and mounds.”

In design, “spikes” are plants with long, thin leaves: muhly grass, feathergrass, iris, sotol, yucca, bulbine. With long, thin leaves, they’re able to survive extreme heat without losing so much water. They can be used as single specimens, or in sweeps to add instant architectural impact to any outdoor scene. Generally, they’re some of the most ornamental of all xeriscape plants.

“Mounds,” on the other hand, are sage-like plants with little fuzzy or waxy leaves (good for retaining water) and dense, sprawling shapes that help shade their own roots. There are dozens of salvias to choose from, along with lantana, Texas oxeye, skullcaps, trailing rosemary and plumbago. Although short in stature, flowering mounds provide a big bang in terms of summer color and can fill up a lot of space in a hurry.

Remember, a common shortcoming in xeric design is using too many mounds: all those tiny little leaves can get a little monotonous without some contrast, especially the ones that turn brown in winter. To create additional texture, pair spikes and mounds with a few agaves, shrubs or trees. (And for bigger color, throw in esperanzas or pride of Barbados.)

The rule of threes: Remember when you’re laying out plants, use odd numbers — groups of three, five and seven — and group similar plants to add pulse to a large area.

Like many landscapers who have made the switch, you may find that the ease of changing out and caring for a few hardy one-gallon plants beats the expense of watering in a sweep of 4-inch annuals. Just don’t forget to mulch!

Brad Wier is a SAWS conservation planner. Years in South Texas landscaping and public horticulture gave him a lasting enthusiasm for native plants that don’t die when sprinklers — and gardeners — break down. He’d rather save time and water for kayaking and tubing. He is a former kilt model, and hears hummingbirds.

This perennial shrub (or small tree) is one of the most drought-tolerant trees around, and it’s an excellent ornamental choice for decorating a sunny water-saver landscape. Its peeling bark is a smooth, steely gray, and the leaves are small, thick and semi-evergreen. It can be slow growing, but the wait pays off: Texas persimmon eventually reaches 20-30 feet tall with a striking silvery-black silhouette.

In spring, Texas persimmon boasts branches covered in small white flowers that develop into hundreds of one-inch fruits that cover the tree in late summer. The very sweet black fruit (similar to figs or prunes in taste) can be consumed fresh or used to make jelly. Many species of birds and mammals love the fruit, which is also used in many places around Mexico to dye leather. (The dark purple fruit can also stain driveways and decks.)

Texas persimmon reproduces mainly by seed and enjoys mostly sunny spots with good drainage, but it’s not very demanding since it will resist onslaughts of both heat and poor nutrient soils.

If you have a nice open space in the sun where other plants have said no, give this tough Texan a chance to put the sun and drought in their place.

By David Abrego, SAWS Conservation Consultant is a native of Panama, likes to spend his time surrounded by plants and fruit trees. So if you can’t find him at home, he’s probably working in a greenhouse. David is also an arborist and an irrigation technician.

When choosing plants for containers, the age-old advice is to choose plants that “thrill, spill or fill.”

Thrillers provide a visual focal point, the biggest and tallest plants in the pot and the stars of the show. Ideally, they offer height and color, like the extravagant hats at NIOSA. It’s hard to beat red yucca — it blooms just in time for Fiesta — but other options could include agave, mealy blue sage, cut-leaf daisy, manfreda, Gregg’s mistflower, firewheel, lanceleaf coreopsis, bee balm and scarlet sage.

Turf sedge with seedheads.Fillers, as the name suggests, compliment the thrillers with texture and/or color like Fiesta medals to help cover your sash. This is a good place to use groundcovers. Some fillers that can withstand the Texas heat include sedge, snake herb, zexmenia, inland seaoats, blue grama, soft hair marbleseed and artemisia ludoviciana.

Frogfruit leaves and flowers.Finally, spillers cascade over the sides of the container, adding dimension, drama and movement like Folklorico dancers in a parade. Some natural suggestions would be frogfruit, silver leaf ponyfoot, woolly stemodia, heartleaf skullcap, prairie verbena, pink evening primrose, snapdragon vine and heartleaf skullcap.

The beauty of potted plants is they can be placed anywhere. Whether you have a backyard oasis or live in an apartment with limited space, there’s no area too big or too small — as always, the main consideration is whether your pots are in sun or shade. Pots tend to dry out more quickly than plants in the ground, but they’re easy enough to reposition as needed or plant right out into the landscape.

As always, check GardenStyleSanAntonio.com for more possibilities and growing details. Rest assured any combination you decide to go with will guarantee a fiesta, not a siesta. Now you’re ready to party with your plants!

Happy potting and viva Fiesta!

Keeping your lawn resilient in times of drought doesn’t have to be difficult or costly. It’s as simple as parting ways with growing water-intensive landscape plants. For me, that was St. Augustine grass.

I recently went on a mission to reduce my own water use and remove a portion of grass to install a drought-tolerant garden bed. It’s important to note that 1) I was not born with a green thumb and 2) this was my first attempt in removing grass and making a drought tolerant bed.

With time I plan to expand this garden bed, but I wanted to test the procedure and learn what might be involved. Here’s what I learned along the way.

To remove established grass there are four recommended options:

Manual removal: This method involves using a garden spade, a square-point shovel with a flat blade that allows you to cut a straight edge right through turf and allowing you to remove it without damaging surrounding grass or plants.

Chemical removal: A foliar application of Glyphosate kills turf by disrupting its metabolic processing of essential enzymes. However, it can take two weeks or more for the grass to die and there is a risk to nearby plants if it’s windy. Also, it shouldn’t be touched or watered for the first seven days after the chemical is applied.

Machine removal: Renting a sod cutter to precisely cut and lift the sod is a relatively easy process without any chemicals. This method also allows for a flare surface and takes away any extra digging or movement of the soil due to the accuracy of the machine. This may be good if you’re thinking about creating a walkway or extra-large garden bed.

Solarization: This method uses clear plastic to cover growing grass for at least six weeks in summer sun, causing the grass to overheat.

Identify your needs when choosing which method to use. Personally, I was creating a mini garden bed to test my own capability, so I opted for a garden spade. This was appropriate for the site since mine was a small area, and because there was a slight chance of rain during the period when I was working. In addition, the grass was St. Augustine, which is one of the easiest to remove manually — the grass and roots can be scooped up fairly cleanly.

After removing the grass, I needed to make sure my garden bed was level to prevent soil erosion from heavy winds and rain. I used bricks for the border, measuring ahead of time to determine how many bricks I needed.

And then came the fun part — I got to pick plants! Because this was a mini garden bed I didn’t need to purchase a whole lot. When you’re purchasing plants it’s important to consider three factors:

• How big the plant will grow.
• How much sunlight it needs.
• How much water it needs. It’s sensible to group plants with matching water needs.

Note where your landscape bed is and go from there. In my case, the fence directly behind the garden bed would provide a half-day of shade during the growing season. So, I chose these plants:

2 Berkeley sedge

2 autumn sage

1 meadow sage

1 pink skullcap

1 Texas betony

1 verbena ‘homestead purple’

2 chocolate daisy

After I planted them based on their heights, I applied some mulch and hand-watered them in.

Saying a partial goodbye to my St. Augustine grass was a good start and I’m excited to continue my gardening journey!

Are you ready to break-up with your St. Augustine grass? If so, apply today for SAWS Watersaver Landscape Coupons and build your dream drought tolerant garden bed.

By Sarah Thissen, an intern with SAWS Conservation.